tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14389308722575115092024-03-05T00:15:46.296-08:00Egre Rock ClimberA Rock Climber's Guide. Comprehensive adventure rock climbing for real climberEgrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.comBlogger114125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-55394519251729821922011-08-05T09:21:00.001-07:002020-02-28T05:57:02.498-08:00Technique - WHISPERS OF WISDOMThe awesome power of Silent Feet
Nothing is more frustrating than falling because your foot slipped. It’s not frustrating because you passed the crux, were still fresh, or had just one move to finish your project. No, it’s frustrating because it’s preventable.
I started climbing in 1998 and, before long, climbed five days a week. My first coach was Andrew Wallach, a local strongman and the headEgrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-82031104289841270172011-08-05T09:09:00.001-07:002011-09-16T12:05:37.981-07:00The Real Secret to Effective Power Training
Hanging Up
You can train long or you can train hard, but not both — which is probably why so many of us train power so wrongly. (By “power,” we mean the product of strength and speed, i.e., the explosive force recruited any time you use momentum, or “go for it.”) Properly training power allows you to get stronger — to muckle through otherwise impossible cruxes. Thus, step one with power Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-37860237790660838202011-08-05T08:58:00.001-07:002011-08-05T08:58:07.166-07:00Big Wall TacticsEight pitches the 1988 first ascent of Waterfall Wall—a dry-season-only Grade VI A4+ that follows the line of Upper Yosemite Falls—Rick Sylvester and I were eager to get to the first good crack of any length we had seen in four pitches.
A slanting dihedral began about 15 feet to right, but a pendulum would leave us too low. There were no features for bashies, horizontal edges for hooks, nor Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-7961501854231391262011-08-05T06:22:00.001-07:002011-09-17T16:35:56.605-07:00Helmet Standar Climbing EquipmentThe climbing instructor should verify that the proper equipment is available for the size and ability level of participants. Helmets, rope, and climbing hardware must be approved by the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) and/or CEN (European Community Norm). All equipment must be acquired new or furnished by the instructor.
Safety Helmet
Records must be kept on the use and Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-62977675568131237292011-08-05T06:05:00.001-07:002011-08-05T06:05:10.476-07:00Bolt WarningAs you probably know by now, the original stainless steel bolts that were used couldn’t stand up to the harsh marine environment on the Brac. In November of 2000 a small team of people blitzed the island with new titanium glue-in Tortuga bolts from Ushba Mountaineering (See www.ushba.com for details). These bolts were developed specifically for marine environments and should provide safe Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-72631198335733727882011-08-05T06:02:00.001-07:002011-09-18T03:08:34.183-07:00Adventure (Serious) Sport Climbing at the Point!Climbing at the Point and Edd’s Place can turn into a serious situation should something go wrong. Remember that unless there are some other climbers around, no one else on the island can rescue you but you! The rappel approaches present some unusual challenges for many climbers, especially since many of them overhang. Also, you will be rappelling on a single rope. Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-77919485183459375632011-08-05T03:33:00.001-07:002011-08-05T03:35:27.008-07:00The High HillEgrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-64717483413256890312011-08-04T11:11:00.001-07:002011-08-04T11:11:01.885-07:00Escaping The StormTHE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT thing when retreating in a storm is to maintain steady downward progress. Foremost, this means avoiding a stuck rope. As you descend, be mindful of rope-eating blocks or flakes. If you encounter a rope-eater, set your next rappel anchor on or near it, instead of continuing down to a lower stance. This way, if the rope does snag when you pull it, you’ll be right there to Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-73400390451056789302011-08-04T11:05:00.001-07:002011-08-04T11:05:32.910-07:00Avoid Finger BlowoutsBy Guillaume Michaud, M.D./Illustration by Jamie Givens
Taping to support finger tendons can help prevent injury, but studies show the most commonly used taping method doesn’t do the job. Here’s a better way.
There are two main flexor tendons in each finger: one that flexes the middle phalanx, and one that flexes the fingertip. These tendons are supported by a system of ligament-like “pulleys” Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-75705872366589122732011-08-04T10:54:00.001-07:002011-08-04T10:54:42.707-07:00Finger YogaBy Dionne Obeso / Illustrations by Jamie Givens
“Extremities need yoga like every other part of the body,” says fingeryoga.com. “To a certain extent, hands represent a microcosm of the organs of action.” I’ve found that finger yoga helps keep my climber fingers from becoming painful claws after hard climbing. Of the many possible stretches and “poses,” the ones described below are my Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-54291119548332225462011-08-04T10:31:00.001-07:002011-08-04T10:31:36.474-07:00The Safety StickStick clipping, big-wall style
Many big-wall climbers see stick clips (aka cheater sticks) solely as emergency tools to use when they run across a broken rivet or missing copperhead. However, a stick clip also can greatly assist in retreating off overhanging walls like the right side of El Capitan or Leaning Tower. Some overhanging rappels may leave you dangling in space, unable to reach the nextEgrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-42412580222276047682011-08-04T10:17:00.001-07:002011-08-04T10:26:32.237-07:00Point and Shoot CamerasWHAT TO LOOK FORProfessional shooter Kennan Harvey—who carries a Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS7 when he’s not toting his pro rig—recommends looking for three key features when researching cameras.
Low tech: Corey Rich shot this image of Beth Rodden on The Phantom in Yosemite National Park with his Nikon P7000 point and shoot.Today's compact digital cameras are slimmer, lighter, and more durable Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-25040349331977675752011-08-04T06:00:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.855-07:00Guides Choice Award - Outdoor Retailer 2011<!-- /* Style Definitions */p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}@page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-76126408317604486352011-08-03T06:00:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.855-07:00Conditions Report - August 3 2011 NORTHWEST:-- Not a bad weekend to get out! Where did you go? This party headed to Boston Basin but it got a little hairy. Click here for the beta. --- Looks like some folks nabbed a first ascent on Dragontail. Click here and here for more info. -- Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.-- Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.-- Webcam for Leavenworth and the StuartEgrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-20451774547206794432011-08-02T06:00:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.855-07:00The Continuing Threat to Red Rock CanyonDeveloper Jim Rhodes has submitted his proposal to develop 2,500 acres of land directly across the street from the world class climbing area, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. This development will include up to 7,000 homes, grocery stores, schools, gas stations, everything. The area will be akin to a small city......directly across the street from Red Rock Canyon.Las Vegas Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-22806808329172419512011-08-01T09:43:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:20:24.603-07:00Time for small holds againVector Space 7c+, Tunnel Wall. Pics by Steven Gordon.The past couple of weeks have flown by, doing work for Mountain Equipment, Gore-Tex and the John Muir Trust among others, and grabbing climbing days in between. First off I nipped up to Tunnel Wall with Steven Gordon after work and climbed an excellent new line I bolted a couple of months ago.It’s the obvious diagonal overlap running Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-22449939460984195412011-08-01T07:45:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:20:24.603-07:00Nice short film about Ben NevisBen from Kate Owen on Vimeo.Nice video by Kate Owen about Ben Nevis. The climbing by me is on the Heather Hat boulder and Kev’s section is on Scimitar Ridge. I particularly liked the hill running part. Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-8082531904484548912011-08-01T06:00:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.855-07:00Sprained Ankles: Don't Do More Damage by Rushing RecoveryAnkle sprains are among the most common injuries, and unfortunately, they are more often than not, not well cared for. An article by health writer Jane Brody in the New York Times explains the dangers of not taking really good care of even a minor sprain.She writes: “A sprained ankle is one of the most common joint injuries, prompting many people to consider it 'just a sprain' and not treat itEgrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-31418737675659209222011-07-28T06:00:00.003-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.855-07:00Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 7/28/11Northwest:--A 30-year-old Southeast Portland climber who fell off Beacon Rock and died Sunday evening was a firefighter-paramedic who worked in Oregon, Skamania County sheriff’s officials said. Nathan Turner fell about 5:30pm, according to a bulletin from the Skamania County Sheriff’s Office. Rescuers first believed he’d only suffered a broken arm and leg. To read more, click here.Mt. Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-29530549035419592802011-07-28T06:00:00.002-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.856-07:00Natural AnchorsOkay, kids. The question for today is easy. What is a natural anchor? The most straightforward definition is that a natural anchor is any simple anchor point that nature provides.The class know-it-all in the front row raises her hand and asks, "but Mr. Martin, isn't a crack a natural anchor?" A crack is a crack. We actually have to put something inside the crack before we Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-16547268921258555872011-07-28T06:00:00.001-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.856-07:00Weekend Warrior: Videos to Get You StokedSo we don't show many basejumping videos...probably because they make us a bit nervous. This week's weekend warrior doesn't do much to change that. Indeed, even though the guy in the video makes it out uninjured, it just reinforces our belief that rocks are made to climb, not to jump off of...BASE Jump Chute Failure, Miracle Save! from Rock & Ice on Vimeo.--Jason D. MartinEgrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-79026043238782993852011-07-28T06:00:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.856-07:00August and September Climbing Events-- August 1-6 -- Stockholm, Sweden -- Stockholm Climbing Festival-- August 4-7 -- Salt Lake City, Utah -- Outdoor Retailer Show-- August 19-21 -- Adirondacks, NY -- Chicks Climbing-- Sept 10 -- Hamilton, MT -- Lost Horse Climbing Festival-- Sept 15-18 -- Salt Lake City -- HERA Climb4Life -- Sept 17-18 -- Pocatello, ID -- Pocatello Pump-- Sept 26 - Oct 1 -- Yosemite Valley, CA -- International Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-48524920960566587222011-07-27T06:00:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.856-07:00Conditions Report - July 27 2011 NORTHWEST:Giant Green Buttress, Sunday July 24. Photo Credit Dyan Padagas.-- Toilets have been installed on Baker: The Forest Service was able to install 12 toilets on the south side of Mt. Baker in the NRA Monday. They are located at the usual spots: Climber's Camp 6500', Sandy, High, Railroad, and Cathedral Camps, and Park Butte LO. They were not placed on the north side but they will be Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-15372129381421715462011-07-26T06:00:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.856-07:00Film Review: SanctumOutdoor adventure movies come and go, and unfortunately few of them are really very good. The newly released to DVD film, Sanctum is just such a film.The film follows a team of cave-divers, climbers and cave explorers on their quest to drop down a deep hole in Papa New Guinea in order to find a cave system that connects to the ocean. While exploring the depths of the cave a cyclone settles Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438930872257511509.post-10253767651125801512011-07-25T06:00:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:22:26.857-07:00The Magnetron - Hint: It's not from a Summer BlockbusterSo I haven't seen the new Transformers movie yet. But there is a character in the old cartoon series named Megatron. He was a great character and I hope he's in the movie.I did see one review of the film that admitted that it was bad, very bad, but that it didn't matter. It essentially said that you should just "shut-up and eat your awesome." I always have a hard time eating the Egrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03625581591495801676noreply@blogger.com0