Point and Shoot Cameras

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Professional shooter Kennan Harvey—who carries a Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS7 when he’s not toting his pro rig—recommends looking for three key features when researching cameras.

Low tech: Corey Rich shot this image of Beth Rodden on The Phantom in Yosemite National Park with his Nikon P7000 point and shoot.

Today's compact digital cameras are slimmer, lighter, and more durable than their redecessors—and their image quality is much better. They’re also a lot more portable and a lot less expensive than full-sized digital SLRs—meaning you’re more likely to carry them on your climbs—and many have features that even the pros respect, including image stabilization and continuous-shooting modes. If you want quality photos from your climbing trips, but don’t want to drop $2,000 or more on a digital SLR, a good point and shoot is a great option.

1. MINIMAL SHUTTER LAG.

The annoying delay between pressing the shutter and when the photo is recorded is especially problematic when trying to capture climbers in motion.

2. A WIDE-ANGLE LENS.

The camera should zoom out to least 28mm, and 24mm is better still. This is essential for taking one-handed shots of yourself and your partner on a belay ledge, and for creating a sense of steepness and exposure when looking down.

3. A “FAST” LENS.

Faster lenses—those with a wider maximum aperture—make for better shooting in low-light conditions such as alpine starts and stormy retreats. In a point and shoot, consider f/2.8 fast, and f/1.8 very fast. Note that due to the mechanics of zooming, maximum aperture typically shrinks when you zoom in, so the lens will have a variable rating such as “f/2.8 – f/4.5.” Look at the lowest number (widest aperture) when comparing cameras.

Of the more techy features in new point and shoots, image stabilization is among the most helpful. “If you’re hanging on a wall, blowing in the wind, or reaching out over a ledge, image stabilization works remarkably well,” says Harvey. Another useful plus is continuous, or “burst,” mode, which improves the odds of catching a moving climber in a pleasing position.

Finally, consider the brightness of the environment in which you’ll be shooting. If mountaineering is your thing, with bright sunlight and snow everywhere, pick a camera with a viewfinder—an LCD monitor is very hard to see in bright conditions or with polarized sunglasses.

DRESS IT UP

Once you pick a camera, create a bombproof case system to protect it. A variety of quality point-and-shoot cases can be found in most mountain and outdoor shops for $30 or less. Hard or soft cases come down to personal preference, but choose a case that’s just big enough for the camera, with a small pocket to hold an extra battery and a sturdy loop that will accept a utility carabiner. A dust-resistant closure system (such as a zipper plus a Velcro flap) is a must for desert climbers. Use the camera’s wrist sling, but connect camera to case with a thin, two-foot keeper cord (or fly fishing–style retractable keeper). Clip the case to your harness and carry it everywhere. After pulling the camera out of the box, read the manual thoroughly. Most point and shoots are intuitive and userfriendly, but you will undoubtedly discover features you didn’t know about. Two very useful options to look for and learn to use: focus lock and exposure lock.

Posted in: Tips